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Chapter 1

ESTABLISHING SQUARE SILL PLATE CHALK LINES
INSTALLING THE TREATED PLATE
INSTALLING LAMINATE BEAM

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Tools needed by volunteer:                    Materials needed:

Hammer                                                    Treated 2x6 sill plate
Nail apron                                                 2 lam beam members
Tape measure                                            Sill seal
Square                                                       16d nails
Utility knife                                              8d nails
Pencil                                                        Washers and nuts
Safety glasses                                            Metal shims
Ear protection (Optional)                          
Work gloves                                              
Hard hat                                                    


Tools and equipment needed:

House plans
Extension cords
Circular saw
Ratchet wrench and socket
30’ tape measure
100’ tape measure
6’ level
Stepladders
Framing square
String line
Chalk box
Wood chisel
Chop saw
Paslode nailer
Drill with ¾” wood auger bit
Drill with ½” masonry bit
Generator

ESTABLISHING SQUARE SILL PLATE CHALK LINES

Checking the Foundation

Measure the foundation to see how close it is to the blueprint dimensions. The plate may have to extend over or be pulled in from the foundation’s edge depending on what the foundation measures. 

EXAMPLE:  If the blueprint dimensions are 40’ and the foundation measures 39’11”, extend the plate ½” over each end of the foundation. If the foundation is off more than 1”, then the measurements on the blueprint will need to change.

For Square or Rectangular Foundations

Setting the “Baseline”

Establish a “Baseline” on the longest wall.  Assuming the foundation and the blueprint dimensions match, make a pencil mark 5⅛” from the outside edge of the foundation wall.  Do this on both ends of the longest wall and snap a chalk line.  This “Baseline” is the chalk line used to establish all other chalk lines. If the foundation and the blueprint dimensions do not match, adjust as stated above.

Setting the “Parallel” line

At one end of the “Baseline” have a helper hold the 10¼” mark of a long tape on the chalk line, measure across the foundation and mark the width of the house to establish the “Parallel” line.

EXAMPLE: The blueprint measurement of the house is 28’.  The helper is holding the end of a tape on the 10¼“ mark on the “Baseline”.  Measure across the foundation to the 28’ mark on the tape and make a pencil mark.

At the other end of the “Baseline” repeat Step 1.  From those two marks snap a chalk line, this is a “Parallel” line to the “Baseline”.  Check measurements:  if the house is 28’ wide, the distance from the “Baseline to the “Parallel” line should measure 27’1¾”   (28’- 10¼“ = 27’1¾”).

Marking the first two corners

Start at one end of the “Baseline” and mark 5⅛” in from the edge (assuming the blueprint and the foundation measurements are the same).  This mark will be 90º adjacent to the “Baseline” marks.  Have a helper hold the 10¼” measurement of a tape on the mark just made and pull the tape along the “Baseline” to the other end.  Make a mark at that end at the proper measurement. 

     
EXAMPLE: If the house is to be 36’ long, make a mark at 35’1¾”   (36’ – 10¼” = 35’1¾”).

Finding the center of the opposite wall

  1. Starting from one of the corner marks just made in Section 1.1.2.3, have a helper hold the 1’ measurement of a tape on that mark (remember that the measurement will read 1’ longer than it actually is).  Pull the tape over to about the center of the “Parallel” line wall (close to the center, by eye is close enough) and mark a spot on the chalk line where an even number on the tape falls.  Say 34’ or 36’.
  2. Repeat Step 1 from the other corner mark on the other end of the “Baseline”. Measure between the two marks just made and make a mark exactly in the center of these two marks. This is the center of the “Parallel” line wall.

Marking the last two corners

  1. From the center point measure an equal distance to the right and left of the mark, exactly half the distance that was established in setting the first two corners for the “Baseline” and mark each end.
  2. With a long tape take diagonal measurements of the corner marks to check for square.  If it is out of square adjust the last two corner marks accordingly.
  3. When the diagonal measurements are the same, snap the remaining chalk lines perpendicular to the “Baseline”.

 

1

Figure 1-1.

For L-Shaped or Irregularly Shaped Foundations

Setting the “Baseline”

Establish a “Baseline” on the longest wall.  Assuming the foundation and the blueprint dimensions match, make a pencil mark 5⅛” from the edge of the foundation wall.  Do this on both ends of the longest wall and snap a chalk line. If the foundation and the blueprint dimensions do not match, adjust as stated in Section 1.1.1 above.

Setting the “Parallel” line

At one end of the “Baseline” have a helper hold the 10¼“ mark of a long tape on the chalk line, measure across the foundation and mark the width of the house to establish one end of the “Parallel” line. 

EXAMPLE:  The blueprint measurement of the house is 28’.  The helper is holding the end of a tape on the 10¼“ mark on the “Baseline”.  Measure across the foundation to the 28’ mark on the tape and make a pencil mark.

  1. With an L-Shaped or Irregular foundation, move down along the “Baseline” until straight across from the corner of the foundation where the “Parallel” line will start.  Have a helper hold the 10¼“ mark of a long tape on the chalk line, measure across the foundation and mark the width of the house to establish other end of the “Parallel” line.
  2. From those two marks snap a chalk line, this is a “Parallel” line to the “Baseline”.  Check measurements: if the house is 28’ wide, measure from the “Baseline” to the “Parallel” line; it should measure 27’1¾” (28’- 10¼“ = 27’1¾”).

Marking the first two corners

Start at one end of the “Parallel” line and mark 5⅛” in from the edge (assuming the blueprint and the foundation measurements are the same).  This mark will be 90º adjacent to the “Baseline” marks.  Have a helper hold the 10¼“ measurement of a tape on the mark you just made and pull the tape along the “Parallel” line to the other end.  Make a mark at that end at the proper measurement.

EXAMPLE:  If the house is to be 36’ long, make a mark at 35’1¾”.  (36’ – 10¼“ = 35’1¾”)

Finding the center of the opposite wall

  1. Starting from one of the corner marks just made (see Section 1.1.3.3), have a helper hold the 1’ mark of a tape on that mark.  Pull the tape over to about the center of the “Baseline” wall (close to the center, by eye is close enough) and mark a spot on the chalk line where an even number on the tape falls.  Say 28’ or 30’.
  2. Repeat Step 1 from the other corner mark on the other end of the “Parallel” line. Measure between the two marks just made and make a mark exactly in the center of these two marks. This mark will be used to establish the corner marks.

Marking the next two corners

  1. From the center point measure an equal distance to the right and left of the mark, exactly half the distance that was established in setting the first two corners for the “Parallel” line and mark.
  2. With a long tape take diagonal measurements of the corner marks to check for square.  If it is out of square adjust the last two corner marks you made accordingly.
  3. When the diagonal measurements are the same snap the remaining chalk lines perpendicular to the “Parallel” line.

Marking the remaining walls

  1. There will be some remaining walls to mark. It may be a bump out or a section of wall that is pushed in from the main foundation footprint.
  2. A square or rectangle footprint on the foundation is already established.  Measure off the already established chalk lines to match the blueprint measurements and make marks accordingly.  (If adjustments were made because the foundation and blueprint measurements do not match, continue to do the same.).  Check for square and snap the remaining chalk lines.

INSTALLING THE TREATED PLATE

  1. Place foam Sill Seal 1” back of the chalk lines.  It will hang over the foundation and will be trimmed off later.
  2. When measuring for length of plate material, make sure that each section of plate is long enough so that two of the bolts can be attached to it.
  3. Cut 2x6 treated sill plates for top of foundation.  Mark and drill bolt clearance holes.  Use a ¾” or ⅞” bit to drill holes larger than the bolt diameter in order to allow correct positioning of the plates on the foundation.  Place the predrilled 2x6 treated plate members over bolts.  Notch sill plates at the beam pockets.
  4. Align interior of the sill plates with chalk line.  Install washers and nuts.  Only snug the nuts down; do not tighten.

2

Figure 1-2.

  1. Lay thick bead of exterior grade caulk on the interior side of the sill plate where it meets the foundation.  Make sure there are no gaps in the caulk when the application is complete.

INSTALLING LAMINATE BEAM

NOTE:  The beam that supports the floor joists is made up of two laminated members.3

  1. To determine the required beam length, measure from the back edge of the beam pockets on each end of the basement walls.  Subtract 1” from overall length and cut laminated members to length.  Double-check the length before cutting.
  2. Lift and set each member into both beam pockets and center them in the pocket.  Temporarily block them to prevent the two members from falling out.
  3. Clamp them together side-to-side (making sure the top of the two members are flush) and top to bottom.  Nail the two members together with three 16d nails on 18” centers on both sides of the beam, staggering the nail lines on opposite sides of the beam.
  4. Place beam so there is a ½” gap between the end of the beam and pocket wall.
  5. Using metal shims, raise the beam until it is flush with the top of the sill plates on each end of the basement wall.
  6. Properly locate beam in beam pocket using the dimensions from foundation wall to beam as shown on house plans.
  7. Stretch a string tightly along the entire length on top of the beam from sill plate to sill plate.  Place a scrap 2x under each end of the string.  Use this string for the adjustment of the beam post heights.
  8. Stretch another tight string along the side of the beam down the entire length.  Again, place a scrap 2x under each end of the string.  Use this string to ensure that the beam is running parallel with the outside walls.  Straighten the beam by nailing 2x4’s (avoid nailing the 2x4 where a joist is going to be installed) from the beam to the side sill plates (hold the 2x4 back 2” from the outside edge of the sill plate for installation of the rimjoist).
  9. Reconfirm beam placement dimensions from Step 6.  Nail securely.  This will ensure that the beam cannot fall while support posts are being installed and when the basement floor is being poured.
  10. Attach support posts at proper intervals according to the House Plans.  Fasten the plate flush on the finished basement side of the post to the bottom of the lam beam with lag bolts and washers.  REQUIREMENT:  The threaded adjustment screw and plate must rest on the concrete pad.
  11. Plumb posts.  Make sure that the beam did not move.
  12. Adjust posts vertically so that the beam is level to the string line used in Step 7 above.
  13. Optionally, run a string over the post locations from plate to plate on the walls running parallel with the beam. Use this to check for any rise or drop in the side walls.
  14. Anchor post plates to concrete pads with masonry anchors and remove adjustment pins prior to pouring the basement floor